Japan`s longest ski resort lies within the valley of the town of Nozawa Onsen. When the clouds clear you can ski one long flowing line from Yamabiko all the way down through Skyline and Karasawa to the valley below. It’s a continuous 10 kilometer run with over a thousand meters of vertical drop, the kind of descent that makes your legs ache after an entire day of riding.

The 10km run at Nozawa consists of various ski courses all connected with each other. At the top of the mountain you have the runs that are part of the Yamabiko area, which go down to the Uenotaira runs, connecting to the Tourogi Pass course, and finally down to the Nagasaka central area. This run can take almost 18 minutes from start to finish and is the highlight of the entire ski resort. After these long runs, you will most likely want to relax and get rid of the tightness in your legs. The great part of Nozawa is that the foothill of the mountain has a town full of hotsprings and inns along with cozy bars and places to eat. You can see locals carrying towels wander toward their favorite onsens and Soto-yu (outside hotsprings).Step inside one and you’ll find hot mineral water, wooden walls, and the sound of snow sliding off the roof. The bath culture here isn’t a show for visitors but a way of life and you’re welcome to join.

Food here is great, from simple eateries to luxurious traditional Japanese food courses. You eat simple, hearty dishes made for winter—nozawana pickles, oyaki buns, miso ramen rich with buttered corn. Cafés open early for skiers chasing first lifts, and the small izakayas take over at night with hot pots, skewers, and a drink or two by the counter. After dinner the streets stay quiet except for the crunch of boots on snow and the hiss of steam from the drains.

Every January the town changes for a night when the Dōsojin Fire Festival lights up the hillside. Men from the village build a wooden shrine, then defend it from flaming torches while the crowd shouts and drums echo through the valley. It’s both wild and sacred, a tradition that feels alive and deeply tied to the mountain itself.

Getting around is easy once you know the layout. The Nagasaka, Hikage, and Karasawa base areas link into a web of lifts and gondolas, and there are rentals and English-friendly lessons for visitors who need a hand. You can find gentle slopes for beginners and small powder stashes for those who wander off the main course. However you spend the day, you’ll end up back where the steam rises, soaking in hot water while the snow keeps falling outside. That’s the rhythm of Nozawa—ski, soak, eat, and rest before it starts again.