Hakuba sits deep in a wide valley beneath the Northern Japanese Alps, surrounded by some of Japan’s most dramatic mountains. The peaks of Shirouma, Goryu, and the rest of the alpine chain rise sharply above the village, their faces catching the morning light after nights of steady snowfall. Spread across this valley are 11 resorts where you can enjoy your stay. From beginner friendly slopes to the backcountry adventurers, Hakuba has it all. The best known are Happo-One (pronounced Oh-Neh), which was home to the 1998 Nagano Olympic downhill. Alongside Happo-One are the Hakuba 47 and Goryu resorts, Iwatake, Tsugaike Kogen, and the snow-hungry twins Cortina and Norikura farther up the road. Compared to Niseko’s smooth volcanic slopes, Hakuba feels wild and alpine. The terrain runs long and steep, full of ridgelines and tree-filled gullies that gather powder on every storm.

Down in the valley, Hakuba’s villages area great place to relax after a whole day of shredding. Around Happo and Wadano, ski-in hotels (hotels with direct access to the slopes) and onsen inns cluster near the lifts, and at dusk you can hear boots clattering along snowy streets toward ramen counters and izakaya bars. Echoland (the street area with the most restaurants), is just a few minutes away and comes alive at night. The air fills with the smell of grilled yakitori, wood-fired pizza, and the chatter of guides and instructors winding down after long days. Near the station, the atmosphere shifts to a slower and more local area with soba shops, cozy diners serving Nagano comfort food, and convenience stores where you can grab steamed buns before catching the shuttle.

Getting to Hakuba is easier than its remote setting suggests. Most travelers take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano, then transfer to the express bus that goes into the mountains. There are also seasonal direct routes from both airports and the capital itself. Once you arrive, resort shuttles crisscross the valley, and many lodges offer their own morning drop-offs. You’ll find plenty of English-speaking services—from ski schools to rental shops.

Snowfall here can shift depending on the season but when the north-west storms align, Hakuba begins to show its true colors. The powder is dry and fast, settling softly in the trees and refilling between laps. On clear mornings, the entire valley glows white all around you with the Japanese alps in the background. On windy days, the lifts can close due to the immense storms near the top of the mountains. On these days, tree runs and low-angle lines become your best friends.

Nights in Hakuba are laid back and help you relax your sore legs. After you slip off your boots at the entrance, you can let the heat of the hotspring work through your legs, then wander out into the calm snowy town of Hakuba. Dinner might be hand-cut soba, a steaming hot pot, or butter-corn miso ramen under paper lanterns which give off a very Japanese-vibe. Some nights end at a small counter bar with jazz humming from the speakers, others by a fire with friends recounting the day’s runs. Hakuba has long been Japan`s premier ski town and compared to places like Niseko, is much more accessible from Tokyo and may be a litte more budget-friendly too.